Les Trois Rois, Switzerland

“If we had paddled upstream long enough, we would have come here." Our daughters look amazed as they gaze from us at the fast-flowing river Rhine and back again. We are in Basel in Switzerland and indeed if you through a boat in the river you eventually end up in our hometown, on the same Rhine, in the Netherlands.

However, we certainly do not want to leave as we planned for two nights in one of the best hotels in Switzerland and one of the oldest city hotels in Europe. Founded in 1681 as a gentlemen's inn and rebuilt in 1844, The Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois covers half a block and majestically overlooks the Rhine. The list of celebrities and royalties who have put their tired heads on the pillows here, is inexhaustible. Thomas Mann, Ella Fitzgerald, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, Bryan Adams, our very own Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands, Queen Elisabeth II of Great Britain, the Empress of Japan, Charles Dickens, Field Marshal Montgomery, the list goes on and on. Pablo Picasso seems to have enjoyed his stay so much that he reportedly did not go to bed and stayed on his balcony all night.

When we look up from the sidewalk in front of the hotel, we see the statues of three kings high on the facade. In the past, inns near the trade routes were often referred to in the same way. A reference to the three wise men from the Orient: Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar. However, all this history is lost on our daughters, as they have other things on their minds. They react a bit cautiously when the lovely staff proposes a treasure hunt, since they find themselves a bit too old for it. Fortunately, they have a chance of heart and enthusiastically jump in. This brand new treasure hunt runs through the hotel and is based on an fun comic strip. Directly from the start the story grips them as they run from one point of interest to another, supervised by one of the staff members. We are also in for this private tour, so we follow at an appropriate distance. The reception rooms we explore, including a writing room on the first floor and traditional cigar lounge in the lower level, are delightful. Everything exudes refinement and grandeur at the same time. The marble lobby, gilded arches, ceiling frescoes, a chandelier-adorned lift; it all shows grandeur but the atmosphere is so pleasant that it never feels distant or rigid. This feeling is enhanced by the exceptional friendliness of the staff when encounter. We all think this is no ordinary hotel.

That sense of excitementis heightened when we enter our River Family Two-Bed Rooms suite. For starters, the view of the Rhine is breathtaking. We immediately understand why the great painter Picasso put his night's sleep aside. The suite is spacious, exquisitely furnished with silk wallcovering and drapes and consists of two bedrooms with a common entrance. Perfect for families because when the children go to sleep, parents in the other room can read quietly or watch TV without disturbing their night. Conversely in the morning, parents can lie down a little longer, while the children already start playing. Both bedrooms furthermore have a desk, sitting area and private bathroom. As in the entire hotel, the style tends towards luxurious, classicism. And we absolutely adore the special welcoming surprise with coloring pictures, handwritten welcome card, fruits, snacks and sweets.

We are more than satisfied with our accommodation. For those who want to make the stay even more special, there is the Rooftop Suite Les Trois Rois. This 250 m2 suite offers a cozy living room with a fireplace, two bedrooms, three bathrooms, two dining tables and a television and work. The true highlight is located on the roof terrace: an outdoor Jacuzzi with sublime views of the old town and the river. We dream a little further.

First, however, it is time to explore Basel. Perhaps for many not immediately the single one destination that comes to mind when planning to visit the Alps. The compact city with around 175,000 inhabitants is located in northwestern Switzerland, at the border triangle with France and Germany. As said, the Rhine is the lifeline. In the Middle Ages, ships transported goods down the Rhine and into the world. And although Basel is now one of the most important European centers for contemporary architecture, there is certainly still much to discover from older times. On the left bank lies Greater Basel and on the right bank Lesser Basel. The two boroughs are connected by five bridges. The Mittlere Rheinbrücke is the best known. Greater Basel houses the historic city center with the 12th-century Basel Minster as an important eye-catcher. The Marktplatz with the Gothic town hall and Jugendstil buildings is one of the more important squares and certainly worth a visit. Another striking square is Barfüsserplatz: locally called Barfi. It takes its name from the Franciscans monks, who once had their monastery here and walked around barefoot, or barfuss. The residential areas in Greater Basel have a green, park-like character. Also noteworthy is the Neo-Gothic Evangelical Elisabethenkirche from 1865 in the center of the city. The tower is more than 70 m high. At 52 m height there is a narrow viewing platform that your family can reach via 228 steps.

All in all it is a pleasant city just to stroll through in a leisure’s pace. Or take the tram and use the free day tickets provided by the hotel. At the same time, it has a remarkable number of beautiful and fun museums, some of which are certainly suitable for a visit with children. We stop by at the Basel Paper Mill Museum. It is the national museum for paper, typography and writing and well worth a visit. Within the walls of a medieval mill you discover the bookmaking process from handmade paper to the finished book. And the most fun part is that children get to see and make their own paper using a little printing press. Everything was so fun and informative, and the girls had a great time trying all the different activities. Another sure hit with (younger) kids is the Spielzeug Welten Museum. This exhibition with more than 6,000 teddy bears, dolls, toy shops, dollhouses and miniatures is unique in Europe. The museum houses the largest collection of old teddy bears in the world, more than 2,500 of them. You could easily spend half a day here.

Petrol heads should head to the Pantheon which housed Switzerland's largest collection of vintage cars. It offers a fascinating insight into the history of auto-mobility, the practical work of mechanics and a great deal more. Another perspective on mechanism is offered in the Jean Tinguely Museum built in tribute to the artist of the same name. This is the perfect museum to introduce children to art. Almost all the images by Jean Tinguely move; which is particularly fascinating for those who want to be surprised and have no patience for paintings. The exhibits are assembled from waste and most of them have a moving part. The overall charm of the museum is the great ingenuity of the Swiss artist.

Animals lovers should definitely check out the Basel Zoo; a beautiful historic zoo in the middle of the city. There are many different types of animals to observe and the restaurant has excellent food. One of the highlights is the daily penguin walk. Before the walk starts at 11 a.m., they can be found patiently waiting by the door for the zoo keeper to appear and take them off on their short stroll. Accompanied by dozens of zoo visitors, they waddle out to the outdoor enclosure, where they then spend the rest of the day.

The concierge team at Hotel Les Trois Rois know the city like the back of their hands and are happy to share their knowledge to ensure that you are never bored. After a day full of adventures, it is also great to relax in one of the lounge chairs in the lobby. Or if the weather allows: have a drink on the terrace with a view of the river. And although a pianist plays Chopin while we sip our cocktails, the ambience remains nice and relaxed. Nobody looks up to a few children who are exploring or drawing at the table. Certain days the bar offers a “The cocktail experience". The best way to describe it, is as an afternoon tea taken in the evening during which you feast on small delicacies from the kitchen, combined with excellent drinks. A two-hour journey of discovery through the history of cocktails.

This is the ideal hotel for true gastronomes. Restaurant Cheval Blanc under the inspiring leadership of chef Peter Knogl has no less than 3 stars in the Michelin Guide. Perhaps not directly the place to dine with children, but an absolute must. We enjoy Brasserie Les Trois Rois from Swiss and French brasserie specialties, with ingredients fresh from the market. The service is stylish and friendly, and the menu is excellent with several special children's dishes. At the end there were even a couple of little chocolate desserts left on the table which were amazing.

Reflection of our candle-light-dinner at the Rhine

Tired but satisfied we look for our suite. The solid walls and effective shades make for a peaceful night's sleep under crisp white sheets. In the morning we are surprised with a delicious breakfast in the brasserie with again a beautiful view over the river. There is a great selection of cheese and bread, but also plenty of other options for those with other preferences.

Unfortunately, we are just one week early for the Basler Fasnacht. For three days in February or March, from early Monday to early Thursday, the entire city of Basel is in state of exception. It is the biggest carnival in Switzerland and takes place annually between February and March in Basel. It has been listed as one of the top fifty local festivities in Europe. The partygoers dress up in a wide variety of costumes, including a mask known as a Larve. Participants are fully concealed and must remain incognito while parading; it is considered inappropriate and a breach of protocol to identify oneself by removing the mask, other than during official breaks from the parade. We promised ourselves to be back to experience this spectacle.

Another highly recommended event occurs on hot summer days as swimming on the Rhine becomes
Basel's No. 1 folk sport. You can put your clothes in a «Wickelfisch» swim bag and simply float down on the gentle current through the picturesque old town. We suggest you just do like the locals do as the Swiss have led the way in city swimming: for decades, cities such as Basel, Berne, Zurich and Geneva have been making rivers accessible and safe for swimmers. Another way to enjoy the river is by making a river cruise on one of the specially outfitted ships. Or save yourself some money and hope on one of the city's four ferries with which you can cross the Rhine without motorized assistance, using only the natural power of the river's current. It is not only tourists that are thrilled by this mode of transport, but the inhabitants of the city also regularly use this means of transport around the city. The more sporty types can also try some stand-up paddling. After a crash course you will paddle along the various sights under supervision; a trip of about 2 hours.

WOW

# Beautiful hotel with the grandeur of the past. There is not a hint of bling, but there is a real feel of the beautifully maintained historic property.

# Super friendly employees, valet parking, top rooms, beautiful bar, and brasserie.

# It’s location at the Rhine certainly helps to relax, just by watching the sun go down or floating in it on hot days.